
So the other day I was rummaging through my film drawer out of sheer boredom, when I came upon the brick of cheap film Mr. Pink gave me some time last year: Ten rolls of Lucky SHD 100 New, which is apparently no different from Lucky SHD 100 Old, except that it's New.
Immediately, I saw a solution to my ennui: Another film speed test! Nothing livens up a blog like bracketing exposures by half-stops!
The only problem was that I was out of firearms. It seemed my past two film reviews (Kodak Ektar 100 in 35mm and 120) used up all of my manly photographic machismo . . . until, in a flash of testosterone-fueled memory, I recalled my tactical black KA-BAR. KA-BAR is an ancient Native American word that means "Big-Assed Knife."

A film speed test determines the true sensitivity of a film in a given workflow, which is often different from the manufacturer's rating. For those that don't know, I take these tests very seriously. In a fit of immaculate adherence to the scientific method, I carefully pried one box of Lucky 100 SHD New out of the brick that has been in my fridge for something like a year now. I figure we can ignore minuscule variables like sample variation, shipping and warehousing conditions, the fact that the film is known for its poor emulsion consistency and was bought second-hand on eBay, and that I last mixed developing chemicals in October. It's best not to get caught up in trivialities.
The film is widely reported (and by "widely reported" I mean "I read it on the Internet") to have no
anti-halation layer. This means that light passes through the film, hits the pressure plate, and bounces back, re-exposing the emulsion. The over all effect is reduced contrast and a foggy, glowy look to the highlights.
Of course, if you subscribe to the DarkTopo philosophy, halation layers are for sissies. On with the test.
The SpecsLucky SHD 100 New
Nikon F100 (tripod mounted, triggered w/ cable release)
Nikkor 50mm/f1.8 AF-D
Nikon CoolScan V
Pin Cushion "borrowed" from my smoking hot and incredibly patient wife's sewing table
KA-BAR (big-assed knife)
The ProcedureAs in previous film speed tests, I set up a gray card with my white and black objects. Since my last two tests, which included a Glock 9mm and an
evil black rifle, all my immediate neighbors have moved away. Imagine that. Anyway, I hoped a knife would be less intimidating to passersby and various art types that might read my blog. Yes, I'm a knife owner, but I only use it for target practice.
I used the F100's spot meter on the gray card, and then took a series of photos at half-stop increments from -2 stops to +2 stops from the meter's reading. I developed the film in XTOL according to the
Massive Developing Chart: A 1:1.5 dilution, for 8 minutes, at 20*C. I then scanned the negatives after calibrating the black point with the film leader and
this procedure from Flickr.
I then applied an identical levels adjustment layer to all of the images. In this adjustment, I dragged the black point up just enough to make the blank spaces on the edges a good, solid black. No other adjustments were made.
Here are the results:

Lucky SHD 100 New, exposed at ISO 400 (Metered -2.0, 1/1000 @ f4)

Lucky SHD 100 New, exposed at ISO 250 (Metered -1.5, 1/750 @ f4)

Lucky SHD 100 New, exposed at ISO 200 (Metered -1.0, 1/500 @ f4)

Lucky SHD 100 New, exposed at ISO 150 (Metered -0.5, 1/350 @ f4)

Lucky SHD 100 New, exposed at ISO 100 (Exposed as metered, 1/250 @ f4)

Lucky SHD 100 New, exposed at ISO 75 (Metered +0.5, 1/180 @ f4)

Lucky SHD 100 New, exposed at ISO 50 (Metered +1.0, 1/125 @ f4)

Lucky SHD 100 New, exposed at ISO 38 (Metered +1.5, 1/90 @ f4)

Lucky SHD 100 New, exposed at ISO 25 (Metered +2.0, 1/60 @ f4)
Ouch. Not what I was expecting.
I don't know how it looks on your monitor, but on mine things are a little . . . bright. My monitors are calibrated, and to my taste the image with the best shadow detail was the one shot at ISO 200. Thus, the film would actually be rated a full stop faster than the box rating, an idea that runs contrary to conventional wisdom.
However, ISO 200 is also where the highlights begin to block up. Look at the ISO 100 image; the pin cushion is stark white. This reveals a few possibilities:
1. The Massive Developing Chart is wrong, and the film is over developed.
2. Lucky 100 and Lucky 400 are actually the same film with different packaging.
3. Anti-halation layers aren't just for sissies after all.
Number 1 is quite likely, and even if it's not, I'm sure the development could be dialed back to reign in the highlights a little. Worth a try, maybe. Number 2 would not surprise me; after all, this film is made in the same country that sells us toothpaste full of rocket fuel. But my money is on Number 3.
There is also coarse grain and a lack of sharpness to this emulsion:

So far, nothing about the film is looking positive. But everybody on the Internet said it was great, and had a "real look" to it! I'm not sure what a "real look" means, but people usually bring it up when they talk about Leicas and Hasselblads. And Holgas. So is this film "bad," or is that just the "look?"
There was no way to tell for sure without more shooting. And I still had 26 frames. So off I went to my usual testing ground, the clothesline in the backyard. Lately, the clothesline poles have been infested with yellow jackets. But I wasn't afraid, I had a big-assed knife!


Buy this photo!Alright, the bird feeder shot definitely has a look. Kind of a "Zone V = Zone VII" look. But a look nonetheless. I went downtown.




At least the look is consistent: Not high-contrast, so much as "compressed highlights." It renders everything above middle gray as very light gray. With much post-processing work, I was able to tame the highlights and find detail, but at the expense of the already under-represented midtones. The tone curve of this film isn't published, but if it was, it would look like a flagpole.
That said, any medium is just a collection of gimmicks. The trick is to make the gimmick work for you. Out of the whole roll, I was most pleased with this shot:
Buy this photo!I feel like this is where the "look" of the film and the reality of the content intersect. So, in that very targeted way, the film served its purpose. But that's not a purpose I'm usually after.
ConclusionThe bottom line: This is not a great film unless you happen to be taking pictures of a
dark-skinned girl in a white dress with a white horse against a white sky. I respect the work other folks have done with it, but I wonder why they didn't choose a more capable film and tweak it to get the same look.
"Look" aside, no anti-halation layer, a sub-standard emulsion and poor quality control make this film pretty terrible. And who would have guessed? I mean, at less than a dollar a roll, who but the most wary of consumers would have thought this film would be so faulty? It's a good thing I did a test.
FOR SALENine rolls of Lucky 100 SHD New!
Never been shot!
Has a Real Look to it!